A few years ago, I saw some news articles on an Iron Age burial from Switzerland. A high-status woman was buried in a tree-trunk coffin with some beautiful grave goods, including a bead swag with glass and amber beads:
I loved it, I coveted it, I decided to make something like it.
Step 1: Decide on the form
I don’t often wear peplos gowns with two brooches and a bead swag. Since I love and covet this look, I wanted it to be something I would actually wear, in garb or out of it. So I decided to go with a necklace.
Step 2: Get the proportions
Getting something that looks like the necklace above isn’t quite as easy as buying blue and yellow beads, done. There’s the relative sizes of the beads - how big the the large focal compared to the small blue spacers? The general reporting didn’t include that kind of detail, and i wasn’t motivated enough to track down an archaeological report.
I took the image above and opened in up in MS Paint. I could draw line along the diameter of each bead, and across its width, and then get the length of those lines from the pixel addresses of the start and stop points, combined with a little Pythagorean Theorem:
Length = SquareRoot( (Xstop - Xstart)^2 + (Ystop - Ystart)^2)
- Small blue beads: 18 pixels across, 5 pixels wide
- Small yellow beads: 21 pixels across, 9 pixels wide
- Larger amber bead: 33 pixels across, 27 pixels wide
- Large blue beads flanking focal: 40 pixels across, 17 pixels wide
- Focal: 80 pixels across, 45 pixels wide
Values are all very approximate. It’s not always clear in the image where a bead starts or stops, because there are shadows.
So how do I translate “pixels” into beads I can buy? FIrst, I simplified all of those values above. The smallest dimension was 5 pixels, so I divided everything by 5 and rounded to get nice integer values:
- Small blue bead: 4 x 1
- Small yellow bead: 4 x 2
- Amber bead: 6.5 x 5.5
- Big blue bead: 8 x 3.5
- Focal: 16 x 9
Now I can start to get relative sizes of beads. For example, I want a focal with a diameter 4x larger than the diameter of the smallest spacer (16/4 = 4).
Step 3: Shopping!
The Focal
The main challenge would be the focal. There would not be many options for that, and I suspected they would all be found at Heart of Oak Crafts on Etsy. Bead Pattern 92 is a Hiberno-Norse design from centuries later than the Celtic necklace, but a good fit nevertheless. It’s blue, with yellow dots, and two side lobes that look like the larger blue beads in my original. (Which might be part of the original focal, I don’t know.) Only problem is that Heart of Oak doesn’t provide dimensions directly for this, just a comparison with a US penny. I decided to purchase it on faith and do my best with the other beads.
Heart of Oak Bead 92
The Blue and Yellow Spacers
A little Googling taught me that the flat, round shape I wanted for the spacers called “rondelle” by bead people. The smallest rondelles I was finding in that deep cobalt blue were 6mm across:
Found on eBay
The small yellow glass beads that flank the amber beads in the original were the same diameter, so I also got 6mm yellow rondelles:
From Etsy vendor BaubleShoppeBeads
Amber and Faux Amber
The bigger of the amber beads was not-quite round, but I was not finding amber beads in a lot of shapes. I went with round beads. How big should it be? My “4 across” spacer is 6mm; so my “6.5 across” bead should be:
(6 mm/4)*6.5 = 9.75 mm
So I got a trio of 10mm diameter amber beads.
From Etsy vendor AmberusShop
Now what about the smaller amber beads? The amber on this necklace is a bit odd. On either side of the focal, there’s a larger amber bead and a smaller one. The smaller ones are about the same size as the spacer beads. The two larger beads aren’t identical (not unusual on early bead necklaces); the other bead is about the same diameter, but has a much more pronounced saucer shape. I picked up some 9mm diameter saucer-shaped beads in a frosted amber glass. The frosted effect was not ideal, but it was what I could find.
From Etsy vendor SeeSpotRunFindings
Lastly, for those smallest amber beads, I got 8mm glass rondelles, so they’d just be slightly larger than the spacers around them.
From BedazzlingBeads on Amazon
Step 4: Stringing
I almost immediately decided I didn’t much like the small 8mm amber glass rondelles. They got visually lost between the bright yellow rondelles flanking them.
I also didn’t really like the asymmetry in the restrung original. If you look at the image at the top of the post, you can see:
Tiny amber ---- Medium amber ---- FOCAL ---- Tiny amber (or glass?) ---- Medium amber
The second 'tiny amber' may even be a single yellow glass bead; it's a bit hard to tell. This is fine and good and period, as near as I can tell. Strict adherence to bilateral symmetry does not seem to have been a priority in early jewelry, although reconstructions often show designs that are echoed or rhymed on either side - similar sizes/different colors, similar colors/different sizes, things like that. However, I was again looking for a piece of jewelry I could wear in or out of the SCA, so I wanted something more typically modern:
Tiny amber ---- Medium amber ---- FOCAL ---- Medium amber ---- Tiny amber
I also used my 9mm saucer beads for the "tiny" ambers, rather than the 8mm rondelles. The difference in diameter isn't very much, but the greater thickness of the saucers gives them substantially more visual presence. Yet, they feel substantially smaller than the 10mm round amber beads, so there's a nice distinction there as well. This is again a departure from the original, but I preferred the effect.
I played around with the number of blue spacers to use. My first trial used 25 between each of the showpiece beads. That put the saucer beads behind my shoulder line. It wasn’t a bad look but I wanted the showpiece beads more around the front, partly to show them off, and partly to echo the original bead swag. 15 blue beads did the trick.
Results
Overall, I am extremely pleased with the outcome! This is a lovely necklace that is sleek enough for daily wear, and historically plausible enough for SCA use. Although the original inspiration is Iron Age, I think it would pass as plausible for most early-ish northern European bead necklace/swag contexts. A bead historian might find something amiss, but the casual viewer will not.
The focal is also not nearly as large, relative to the spacers, as in the original. Without dimensions for the original beads, I’m not sure if this is because my spacers are too large or my focal is too small. However, I actually like the size of the focal that I have. It gives the necklace a different look, something more like a graduated string of pearls, where the elements are closer in size to each other. It makes the necklace a bit more suitable for daily wear outside of events to my mind. I’m also slightly concerned that a bead 4x wider than the spacers would be so large that it would lift the string of beads on either side off my neck slightly, putting weight on the main bead and being uncomfortable as a result. (This would not be a problem with beads suspended from brooches, I expect, as they sit further down the chest and hang, rather than rest on the collarbone and sternum.)